Lizzie Gore-Grimes spends a wonderful weekend walking, browsing and waterfall watching in Kenmare.
Whatever about forest bathing, waterfall watching is my new restorative wellness practice of choice. And there are few better places to indulge in it than Kerry’s Sheen Falls Lodge, built as it is right next to its namesake Sheen Waterfall as it flows out into Kenmare Bay, with many of the bedrooms boasting exceptional ring-side views of the gushing waters below. Going to sleep to the sound of the falls and getting to sit on one of the many benches perched along the riverbank, feeling the gentle mist on your face is truly spectacular.
Although an internationally recognised Relais & Châteaux five-star hotel, it is this easy affinity with the natural landscape and the wonderfully warm and unpretentious atmosphere created by the staff and surroundings that make Sheen Falls a second home to many. As well as the natural riches, the hotel offers all the luxury essentials, from a menu of outdoor pursuit offerings, a sumptuous spa and elegant fine dining in The Falls Restaurant. We spent many wonderful hours exploring the miles of verdant walking routes that the hotel offers through the 300-acre estate and also hopped on the hotel shuttle to Kenmare town, a quick five-minute drive away.
SHOP Venturing into the quaint town of Kenmare, with its picture-postcard main street of pink, green, and yellow-painted shopfronts, you’re spoilt for retail choice from both the expected heritage end and a few contemporary twists. The most vibrant surprise comes in the form of Doireann Healy’s fabulous Begley & Bowie clothing and interiors store, featuring her own neon-pop designed t-shirts, dresses, bags, art prints and more. While those drawn to a more classic, sartorial look will enjoy the tactile treats in store in Kenmare Cashmere. Before being lured by all that glitters into jewellery designer Paul Kelly’s gorgeous shop PFK Kenmare, where he handcrafts pieces in solid gold, silver and precious stones. Lovers of ceramics, sculpture and original art are also spoiled for choice with galleries including the Butter Market and Mill Cove Gallery.
EAT There’s no fear of being poorly fed in Kenmare, with chef Brendan Byrne’s meticulous cooking at Lagom just one of the many gastro highlights in town. Renowned for his skill with wood fire cooking, don’t leave without tasting his barbecued local lamb rump served with celeriac cannelloni. The Lime Tree is another local favourite, famous for serving a best-of-Ireland menu in the charming surrounds of a stone cottage that dates back to 1832. And because a little sweet treat to finish is a must, visit award-winning chocolatier Benoit Lorge’s den of delights, Lorge Chocolatier, for a life-changing hot chocolate before you go.
This article originally appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of IMAGE Magazine.
IMAGE Autumn 2024
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